Written By: Leason Dancaescu| Gulf Coast Regional Coordinator
Photo By: Leason Dancaescu

As surfers, a lot of us tend to be a bit overcritical. Pouring over clips and analyzing style and turns to nitpick what was not perfect. This isn’t inherently bad if we view it through the lens of wanting to improve and better our surf technique. 

But so often I feel like I’m hearing people beating themselves (or others) up over such minute details. “That turn coulda have been sick, but I bogged my rail and totally blew it. I’m surfing like garbage again today.” “Did you see _____ just now, his style is so bad… it just looks so kooky.”

Sound familiar? 

If I’m honest, I’ve been there many times throughout my life. But not all surfers are. Picture the guy (or gal), pretty much every lineup has one, that no matter what – whether a knee high head dip, a pearl, a proper cutty, or just standing up and going straight – you can guarantee that in the car park you’ll hear about how it was the sickest wave of their life. 

Complete unmitigated stoke, regardless of conditions, regardless of the outcome of the wave, it’s always the best wave of their life. I bet you are picturing someone specific you surf with or are around right now.

The older I get, the more and more I realize that none of us is guaranteed tomorrow. Every day in God’s glorious creation is a gift. Every wave we are blessed to get to ride is as well. The fact that we are healthy enough, with functioning bodies and minds, to even surf is a miracle in itself. 

I have realized that every wave I ride really could be the last I’ll ever ride. God willing, I’ll still be surfing for many, many more years, but if we look at surfing (and life) through this lens… we should show that unmitigated stoke, that thankfulness, that joy for EVERY wave too! Every wave should be our “best wave ever.”

‭‭1 Thessalonians‬ ‭5‬:‭16‬-‭18‬ ‭NIV‬‬

“Rejoice always, pray continually, give thanks in all circumstances; for this is God’s will for you in Christ Jesus.”